The History of Corsetry – Part 3 – The 20th Century

Friday, September 11th, 2009 at 9:55 am

20^th Century (1900’s)

By the very beginning of the century,corsetshad grown so long that they laced right down to the knee. However, outdoor pursuits were becoming more popular and with them came the demand for clothes that were less structured and restrictive. Corsets were still worn but they had hardly any boning and relied on quilting for gentle support. In 1910, a corset with mesh panels and an elasticized ‘step-in’ corset were both introduced.

WWI

During the First World War, women were busy working in munitions factories but couldn’t wear any clothes with metal in them for fear that sparks may set off an explosion. Metal was also in short supply and women had to donate their corsets to the war effort. These were replaced with a new design, stiffened with cord.

1920’s

By 1918, the Roaring Twenties was just around the corner and the fashion for a flat boyish figure was beginning. Corset makers switched to making bras that flattened chests. Suspenders were now attached to an extremely shortened version of the corset – the suspender belt.

1930’s

Curves were back Instead of the do-it-all corset, they now wore a brassiere, a suspender belt to hold up their stockings and a stretchy girdle. This was designed when Dunlop invented a fine elastic called Lastex that was woven into fabric to make it stretchy and supportive.

Silhouette made a girdle called the ‘Radiante’ which was advertized as having “a stimulating, even rejuvenating influence on the cells of the human body.” They claimed that it could “…aid fatigue, warm the body and help rheumatic pain.” As part of its’ claims to promote good health, the Marie Curie Institute certified that it was “genuinely radioactive”.

WWII

Germany had many garment factories but shortages meant that they were unable to import enough fabrics to stay in business.

Pockets were now sewn into girdles and corsets to keep documents and portable keepsakes safe from the air raids. These pockets were especially popular with women in the armed forces who were forbidden to carry a purse.

Girdles survived the war because women argued that they had to wear them and so they were named as ‘essential’ clothes items.

Before the war, Chanel had pioneered softly cut clothes that didn’t require rigid corsetry. After the war, she returned to Paris to find that Dior had taken over the top spot and their new look included a corset. Chanel was furious and reworked her earlier designs until she toppled Dior and retook the Paris crown.

1960’s

A range of girdles came onto the market, printed with the American flag and the Union Jack.

1970’s

By now, most women were wearing hose or tights. However, most UK manufacturers were still including suspenders on their girdles. These continue to sell today although it’s now more difficult to source stockings that suit these.

Color

Today, black corsets are considered sexy but this is a very recent attitude. Black underwear was only worn by ladies with lose morals and never by married women!

Until the 1950’s, when fabrics became easier to wash and dry, white was not a popular choice. For decades, the best seller was Tea Rose – a pretty, dusky pink. Once washing got easier, white became the best seller as it was much easier to wear under any color of out clothing.

If you admire Madonna and Dita Von Teese in their glamorous corsets or if you wear one yourself for ‘special’ occasions – spare a thought for women throughout the centuries who have been laced up until breathless, fainted and damaged their internal organs, all in the name of beauty!

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Tagged with: 20th century corsetry • history of corsetry